Intro:
I've been coming on holiday to Ehrwald, Austria, since I was about 11 and it is
one of my favourite places in the world. The magnificent and daunting Zugspitze
dominates the village and provides some beautiful views of sunset light as the
day wears on. I'd been up a few times on the cable car, and always assumed
hiking was near-on impossible. Searching the internet, I found only snippets of
information, which I had to piece together from various sources before realising
that this mountain is really quite achievable. The hardest (and most dangerous)
part is the final scree, which one can avoid by taking a cable car for the last
section. What is important, is to set off early, as the final cable car
down is quite early (worth checking times before you go). Also, they do not
accept credit cards for the descent only journey, so take plenty of cash (in
2009 it was about €20 per person - only slight cheaper than the return trip.
It is not really practical to walk up and down in a day, although there are
mountain huts where you can sleep. I have not (at time of writing) tried any of
these, but I imagine it would be worth making a reservation. Some people take
the cable car up the first bit (the Ehrwalder Alm). I didn't for 2 reasons: 1)
it would have been cheating and 2) the first trip is 8:30am, which is leaving it
a bit late to get down from the summit.
Route:
I was so excited about doing this mountain that I talk a voice recorder with me
and recorded the route with timings, as below. I made 3 stops, mainly because I
just love the food, for about half-an-hour each. Other than that, I would say I
walked very quickly, more so than other walkers on the same day, so please bear
this in mind when looking at the timings.
I got up just after 6, and left the flat at
0654 (in central Ehrwald). The weather was predicted to be good but with thunder storms this afternoon according to one forecast.
0721 At the Ehrwalder Almbahn (included a stop to fill 2 water bottles from the fountain). Time to Alm (according to sign): 1½ hours.
0755 At the Ehrwalder Alm - lots of cows and calves loving and playing with each other.
Just before Gasthof Alpengrüh, turn left signposted Hochfeldern Alm 30 mins. After 20 yards, path forks. Take the right fork signed Hochfeldern Alm and Pestkapelle, up and to right.
0822 Hochfelder Alm Hütte - hauswurst mit brot and 2 large Apfelsaft Gespritzts with Lassie!
0847 Headed up. Leave the way you came in, then turn right following Gatterl: 1½ hours, Knorrhütte 2 1/4 hours, Zugspitze 5 1/4 hours. Passed sign at 0848.
Begin path heading towards Zugspitze, then bears to right. You can see the path in front of you, through the trees, up a grassy bank, then over the bank, up and to your right.
0930 Reached a little peak, which I didn’t go up to as a bit precarious. Path goes over the ridge you’ve reached then down the other side, along the edge of the hill.
0943 Signpost: back to Hochfelder Alm 1 hr, Ehrwald 1 3/4 hours, some others to right. Take 1st exit
(UK way of doing roundabouts!), towards Zugspitze 4 1/4, Knorr hütte 1 hour, Gatterl 1/4 hour.The signpost times have become more realistic as we get away from the touristy bits!
0953 Very steep ascent with a cable to hold on to and pull yourself up.
0955 Gatterl, just on the Austrian side of the German border. Can’t stand on it, but can touch the cross (it’s a little small on the summit). A couple of plaques and a fence & gate. On passing this, you can see the summit, as well as the path coming up the valley from the Garmisch side.
1004 Left Gatterl.
1019 The path proceeds across greyness. It’s well-marked with little Austrian flags painted on the rocks (yes, I know this is the German side) and what appear to be marker cairns. However, these are just boulders dotted around all over the place.
1020 Ruined foundations of a former building (hut?!), a shrine and a Carte d’Or umbrella supported
in a car wheel. A little cloudy on top but not much.
1025 Green hut made of metal or fibreglass. Perhaps it’s a shelter? It’s all shuttered up. Didn’t go right up to it. The path is still well-marked with flags, paint spots (which look like blood!) and arrows.
1047 Knorr hütte, a bit of building work going on. Mini digger here! Looking back I can see Gatterl, which looks not that far away as the crow flies, but I’ve been round the head of the valley. Just passed some people coming the other way with dogs.
1109 After a nice soup with a cheese dumpling where I had a chat with the father and son I passed on the way up the Ehrwalder Alm and the middle-aged couple I met at the Hochfeldern Alm hütte, and an Apfelschorle which looked like bitter lemon, and a postcard, I headed up. I’m told it’s 1½ hours to Son-alpin. The path is less well-defined, with boulders which could mislead one. In fact, you join the Garmisch Reintal path coming in from the right after a few minutes, as they’d had to do a little detour to get to the hut.
1153 I am now walking in patchy snow. The path from the Knorr hütte is quite steep with the odd bit of scree which is a slight scramble. It’s less well-defined, yet not difficult to follow. Occasionally I found I’d strayed from the path, but it was no trouble to get back on.
1220 Arrived at Sonn-alpin restaurant. Tourists everywhere (due to the presence
of the cable car), but worth the little detour to the left just to say you’ve been there.
It's possible to walk up to the ridge and look over (which I didn't do due to
time), and there's a little church there too. Before turning towards the restaurant, look up to your right - this is your path to the summit - scree then rocks. The path is fairly clearly visible zig-zagging up the mountainside. Packed with tourists.
1240 Left Sonn-alpin.
1257 Level with Schneefernerhaus building. It is scambling up steep scree. The way is marked with occasional red spots.
1302 Top of the scree, start of the cable: should be easy from here...
1314 Clouding over, reached a fork. Paint on rock indicating “Gipfel” to the left. Went other way. Should have revised my German, as “Gipfel” means “summit”! Should have gone left. Had to retrace my steps.
1324 Back at “Gipfel” paint - turned left this time!
1345 Reached top platform - crammed with toursts. Queued until...
just after 1400... reached summit!
Pottered around a bit, had a Germknödel and an Obstler, saw the couple from Köln again, then bought a ticket down for €20,20. Had a quick look round the exhibition. Got down about 1512, bus back (which fortunately was 5 minutes late!), little rest, jaccuzzi, dinner (tinned gulaschsuppe, speck and pork pasta), Hotel Sonnenspitze for a Weizen-or-three!
I'd really love your comments or questions, if you've done the walk yourself, done another of the paths, or are thinking of going. Please use the contact page and get in touch!